👩‍🍳 Cook Like a Niçoise 👩‍🍳

Traditional recipes from Nice to recreate at home

Cooking Niçoise food with my close friend Rosa Jackson is a joy.
Her warm, encouraging approach makes our local recipes feel simple and approachable, even for beginners.
A food writer, cooking teacher and founder of Les Petits Farcis cooking school in Nice, Rosa shares her love of seasonal ingredients, local markets and the stories behind each dish.
To me, her enthusiasm recalls what made Julia Child so loved: a gift for making French cooking feel welcoming and achievable. Rosa brings that same spirit to the flavours of Nice.
Her beautiful cookbook, Niçoise: Market-Inspired Cooking from France’s Sunniest City, is a wonderful way to bring these flavours into your own kitchen and a thoughtful gift for anyone who loves Nice.
The socca and pissaladière recipes below are hers, and the ones I use myself.
📖 Discover & buy Niçoise
👩‍🍳 Explore Rosa’s cooking classes at Les Petits Farcis
📷 Follow Rosa on Instagram

Golden pieces of socca, Nice’s traditional chickpea pancake, sprinkled with black pepper on a ceramic plate beside olive oil.

SOCCA, Nice’s Famous Chickpea Pancake

Crisp around the edges, tender inside and generously sprinkled with black pepper, socca is one of Nice’s best-loved street foods. Made with chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt, it is best enjoyed piping hot.
🎬 Watch Rosa make socca

Resting: at least 1 hour, or up to 48 hours refrigerated
Cooking: 12–15 minutes

Ingredients

  • 100 g chickpea flour — approximately ¾ cup
  • ¾ teaspoon salt
  • A pinch of rosemary or herbes de Provence, optional
  • 240 ml water — 1 cup
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil, for the pan
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to serve

Equipment

  • Medium mixing bowl
  • Whisk
  • Kitchen scale or measuring cups
  • Measuring spoons
  • 23 cm / 9-inch cast-iron skillet or metal cake pan rated for the oven temperature
  • Oven gloves
  • Spatula

Method

  1. Mix the batter. Combine the chickpea flour, salt and optional herbs in a bowl. Whisk in half the water until smooth, then gradually add the remaining water. The batter should have the consistency of heavy cream.
  2. Leave to rest. Set aside for at least one hour at room temperature, or cover and refrigerate for up to 48 hours. Rosa recommends the longer rest for a particularly crisp exterior and creamy centre.
  3. Preheat the oven and pan. Heat the oven to 250°C / approximately 480°F. Place the empty skillet or metal cake pan on an upper shelf while the oven heats.
  4. Add the oil and batter. Carefully remove the hot pan using oven gloves. Pour in the olive oil and coat the base. Add the batter and gently swirl the oil and batter together with a whisk.
  5. Bake. Return to the oven for 12–15 minutes. After approximately five minutes, carefully give the pan a gentle shake to help loosen the socca.
  6. Serve immediately. Once golden, sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper and cut into rough pieces. Enjoy piping hot, with your fingers, as we do in Nice!
Pissaladière topped with golden onions, anchovy fillets and black olives, cut into squares on a wooden board.

🎬 Watch Rosa Jackson
make Traditional Niçoise Pissaladière

Pissaladiere, onion niçoise Tart🧅

Original recipe and photos

Serves: 6

Ingredients

Dough

  • 10 g dry yeast
  • 80 ml warm water
  • 200 g bread flour
  • 5 g salt
  • 5 g sugar
  • 30 ml olive oil
  • 1 egg, room temperature

Topping

  • 5 large onions
  • 30 ml olive oil
  • 1 thyme sprig
  • 1 bay leaf
  • About 8 anchovy fillets
  • A handful of Niçoise olives
  • Salt and pepper

Equipment

Bowl, scale, measuring jug, knife, chopping board, frying pan, wooden spoon, baking parchment, tea towel, oiled baking sheet or 28 cm round pan, oven gloves.

Method

  1. Dissolve yeast in water. Mix flour, salt and sugar; incorporate yeast mixture, oil and egg. Knead for at least five minutes. Cover; rise somewhere warm for at least 45 minutes, until doubled.
  2. Slice onions thinly. Cook with oil, herbs and salt over medium-low heat for approximately 45 minutes, stirring beneath a parchment cover. Let soften and turn golden; pepper to taste.
  3. Add two chopped anchovies during the final five minutes.
  4. Deflate dough gently; rest covered for 5–10 minutes.
  5. Stretch onto the baking sheet or pan; spread onions over it.
  6. Bake at 190°C / 375°F for 30 minutes. Add remaining anchovies and olives for the final five minutes.
Golden baked stuffed zucchini flowers sprinkled with herbs in a ceramic dish, with tomato coulis alongside.

Stuffed Zucchini Flowers 🌼

Delicate zucchini blossoms filled with veal, vegetables, Parmesan and fresh herbs, served with tomato coulis.
This is Jean-Claude’s recipe, featured on Les Carnets de Julie.
Read Jean-Claude’s recipe on Julie Andrieu’s website
Watch the preparation on Les Carnets de Julie

Serves: 6 (three flowers per person)

Ingredients

  • 18 fresh zucchini blossoms
  • 2 trompette zucchini, or slender zucchini if unavailable
  • 300 g veal suitable for sautéing
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley
  • 120 g Parmesan
  • ½ bunch basil
  • ½ day-old baguette
  • 100 ml olive oil, for cooking and greasing
  • Milk, enough to cover the bread
  • A little salt
  • Prepared homemade tomato coulis, to serve

Equipment

  • Kitchen scale and measuring jug
  • Knife and chopping board
  • Bowl for soaking the bread
  • Large mixing bowl
  • Frying pan with a lid
  • Steamer
  • Cheese grater
  • Small spoon
  • Baking dish
  • Oven gloves
  • Food thermometer

Method

  1. Soak the bread. Cut the baguette into pieces, cover with milk and leave until softened.
  2. Prepare the herbs and cheese. Wash and dry the parsley and basil, then chop finely. Grate the Parmesan.
  3. Cook the veal. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil with the crushed garlic over medium heat. Add the veal and cook gently without browning for three minutes. Cover and cook for another seven minutes. Reserve the meat and its juices; discard the garlic. The meat will finish cooking inside the flowers.
  4. Steam the zucchini. Steam for approximately 20 minutes, until tender. Drain well and cut into small pieces.
  5. Make the filling. Finely chop the veal by hand, or pulse briefly in a food processor. Combine with the herbs, Parmesan, eggs, drained bread, zucchini and reserved meat juices. Season lightly with salt.
  6. Prepare the flowers. Gently open the blossoms, check inside and carefully remove the central stamen or pistil. Handle gently to avoid tearing the petals.
  7. Fill and arrange. Spoon the filling loosely into each flower and fold the petals over to close. Arrange snugly in an oiled baking dish, alternating their direction.
  8. Bake. The original written recipe does not specify the final oven temperature or duration. As a home-kitchen guide, bake at 180°C / 350°F and begin checking after 20 minutes. Continue until the filling is fully cooked, reaching 74°C / 165°F in the centre. Timing will depend on the size of the flowers and the amount of filling.
  9. Serve. Allow to cool slightly and serve warm with tomato coulis.

A Little Tip

Use the flowers as fresh as possible. To keep them briefly, refrigerate in a closed container with a lightly damp paper towel and use within 24 hours.

Recipe: Jean-Claude, featured on Les Carnets de Julie. English translation and equipment list added for this page. Final baking guidance is an addition, rather than an instruction supplied by the original recipe.

🧺 Where to Shop for Ingredients in Nice

If you are staying in Nice and would like to prepare these recipes, here are a few places to buy your ingredients, from colourful open-air markets to convenient grocery stores and organic shops.

Outdoor Market: Marché de la Libération
A lively neighbourhood market where shopping is part of everyday Niçoise life.
Browse the stalls for onions, zucchini, fresh herbs and seasonal produce. Ask the growers about zucchini blossoms (“fleurs de courgettes” in French) when they are in season.
Address: Avenue Malausséna, around Place du Général de Gaulle and Gare du Sud, extending along Rue Clément Roassal, 06000 Nice.
📍 View on Google Maps
🕒 Open: Tuesday to Sunday, 6am–12:30pm. Closed on Mondays.
More information & opening hours

Outdoor Market: Marché du Cours Saleya
In the heart of the Old Town, the Cours Saleya market makes ingredient shopping a lovely part of your stay.
Address: Cours Saleya, Old Town, 06300 Nice.
📍 View on Google Maps
🕒 Food market: Tuesday to Sunday, 6am–1:30pm. No regular food market on Mondays, when an antiques market takes its place.
More information & opening hours

🛒 MONOPRIX, Everyday Grocery Essentials
For everyday ingredients, Monoprix on Avenue Jean Médecin is a convenient option in central Nice.
Pick up eggs, milk, flour, olive oil, anchovy fillets and other essentials to complete your market shopping.
There are also other Monoprix stores throughout the city, so you may find one closer to your accommodation.
Address: 42 Avenue Jean Médecin, 06000 Nice.
📍 View on Google Maps

Organic Groceries: Biocoop Grimaldi
For socca, look for “farine de pois chiches”, the French name for chickpea flour.
Address: 2 Place Grimaldi, 06000 Nice.
🕒 Open: Monday to Saturday, 9am–8pm; Sunday, 9am–1:30pm.
📍 View on Google Maps
Store details & opening hours

Organic Groceries: Naturalia
Naturalia is another option for organic groceries and ingredients such as chickpea flour. There are several branches in Nice; use the links below to find the most convenient one and check its opening hours.
📍 Find Naturalia stores on Google Maps
Find a store & check opening hours

My Shopping Tips

  • Buy zucchini blossoms as fresh as possible. They are seasonal and delicate, so ask the growers about availability and plan to cook them promptly.
  • Remember the French name for chickpea flour: farine de pois chiches.
  • Check opening hours before visiting, particularly on public holidays.

For more food shops, olive oil and local specialities, explore my Shopping in Nice recommendations.

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